Shingling a valley is a critical step in ensuring the longevity and watertightness of your roof. However, it can be a challenging task, especially for inexperienced DIYers. To achieve a professional-looking and durable valley, it is essential to follow the proper techniques and use high-quality materials. This guide will provide you with comprehensive instructions on how to shingle a valley correctly, including the necessary tools, materials, and step-by-step guidelines.
Before starting, gather the necessary tools and materials. You will need a roofing nailer, roofing nails, a chalk line, a utility knife, a hammer, a pry bar, and a ladder. As for materials, you will need roofing shingles, underlayment, and valley flashing. Choose high-quality materials that are appropriate for your climate and roofing system. Once you have everything you need, you can begin the process of shingling the valley.
The first step is to prepare the valley. This involves installing underlayment and valley flashing. Underlayment is a waterproof material that protects the roof deck from moisture. Valley flashing is a metal or plastic material that is installed over the underlayment to further protect the valley from water penetration. Once the underlayment and valley flashing are in place, you can begin installing the shingles. Start by installing the shingles at the bottom of the valley and work your way up. Overlap each shingle by about 2 inches and nail it in place with roofing nails. Continue this process until you reach the top of the valley.
Essential Tools for Shingling a Valley
Professional Roofing Equipment
Roofing professionals utilize specialized tools to ensure precise installation and durability.
- Roofing hammer: A hefty hammer with a curved claw for lifting and positioning shingles.
- Shingle gauge: A T-shaped tool for measuring and ensuring uniform shingle spacing.
- Shingle knife: A sharp knife for cutting shingles accurately and cleanly.
- Chalk line and chalk: For marking straight lines on the roof surface for shingle alignment.
- ** Roofing square:** A triangular tool for calculating roof angles and rafter lengths.
- Safety harness and rope: Essential safety gear to prevent falls while working at heights.
Safety Essentials
Proper safety precautions are paramount when working on a roof.
- Hard hat: Protects against falling debris and tools.
- Safety glasses: Shields eyes from dust, splinters, and flying objects.
- Work gloves: Prevent blisters and cuts while handling shingles and tools.
- Hearing protection: Earplugs or muffs to reduce noise exposure from power tools.
- Boots with non-slip soles: Ensures stable footing on slippery roof surfaces.
Preparing the Roofing Surface
Before installing new shingles, it’s essential to prepare the roofing surface properly. This involves several steps to ensure a strong and long-lasting installation.
1. Inspect and Remove Old Roofing
Begin by thoroughly inspecting the existing roofing for any damaged or loose shingles. Remove any problematic shingles carefully using a pry bar or similar tool. If the underlying roof deck is damaged, it should be repaired or replaced before continuing.
2. Install Ice and Water Barrier
An ice and water barrier is a self-adhesive membrane that helps prevent water damage from ice dams and wind-driven rain. Install this barrier along the eaves, rakes, valleys, and any other areas where water may accumulate. To ensure proper adhesion, make sure the roofing surface is clean and dry.
Table: Ice and Water Barrier Installation Guidelines
| Location | Installation Guidelines |
|---|---|
| Eaves | Extend 24 inches up the roof deck and 6 inches over the gutter. |
| Rakes | Extend 6 inches up the roof deck and 2 inches over the fascia. |
| Valleys | Extend 6 inches on either side of the valley center and up the roof deck as needed. |
3. Install Starter Strip Shingles
Starter strip shingles are designed to provide a straight edge for the first row of shingles. Install them along the eaves, ensuring they overhang the roof deck by about 1/2 inch. Use roofing nails to secure them every 6 inches.
Installing the Underlayment
Properly installing the underlayment is crucial for protecting your roof from water damage and adding an extra layer of protection against the elements. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to install the underlayment:
- Inspect the roof deck: Ensure that the roof deck is clean, dry, and free of any debris. Repair any cracks or damaged areas before installing the underlayment.
- Roll out the underlayment: Unroll the underlayment parallel to the eaves and make sure it overhangs the eaves by about 6 inches. Overlap adjacent rolls by at least 6 inches and staple them securely.
- Flash the valley: This step is particularly important to prevent water infiltration. Install a valley flashing made of galvanized metal or modified bitumen over the valley. The flashing should extend at least 6 inches on both sides of the valley and be securely fastened with nails or staples.
- Continue installing the underlayment: Once the valley is flashed, continue installing the underlayment up the roof deck. Staple it securely every 6-8 inches and overlap it by at least 6 inches.
- Seal the overlaps: Use underlayment cement or roofing caulk to seal all overlaps and prevent water leakage. This step is especially important in areas with heavy rainfall.
Flashing the Valley
| Material | Installation |
|---|---|
| Galvanized metal | Cut to size, bend to fit the valley, and secure with nails or roofing screws. |
| Modified bitumen | Cut to size, apply adhesive backing, and press into place. |
| Ice and water shield | Roll out parallel to the valley, overlap adjacent pieces, and seal with underlayment cement. |
Laying the First Course of Shingles
Laying the first course of shingles is crucial to ensure the durability and weather resistance of your roof. Follow these detailed steps to achieve a professional and long-lasting installation.
Measure and Mark the Valley Center
- Determine the exact center of the valley by measuring from the eaves to the ridge on both sides of the roof.
- Snap a chalk line perpendicular to the ridge at the center point to mark the valley line.
Install the Metal Valley Flashing
- Cut a piece of valley flashing to the length of the valley, extending it approximately 4 inches beyond the eaves and ridge.
- Center the flashing along the chalk line and nail it into place with roofing nails, spacing them about 6 inches apart.
Nailing the First Course of Shingles
- Start at the eaves and align the first course of shingles along the chalk line.
- Nail each shingle with two roofing nails at the top and one nail at the bottom.
- Ensure that the nails are driven firmly but not too deeply into the wood.
- Special Considerations for Complex Valleys
- For valleys with multiple angles or changes in pitch, it’s essential to measure and cut each shingle individually to ensure a tight fit at every point.
- Use a shingle knife or roofing shear to precisely trim the shingles to fit the contours of the valley.
- Overlap the shingles by at least 2 inches at the joints to prevent water infiltration.
Cutting and Fitting the Valley Shingles
Once the underlayment is in place, it’s time to start cutting and fitting the valley shingles. Valley shingles are usually 3 feet long and have a 6-inch reveal. This means that when they’re laid overlapping, only the top 6 inches of each shingle will be visible.
To begin, measure and cut the first valley shingle to the correct length. This will be the length of the valley, plus 6 inches for the overlap on the lower roof. Once the shingle is cut, place it in the valley, aligning the bottom edge with the underlayment and the top edge with the lower roof.
Next, cut the second valley shingle to the same length as the first. This shingle will overlap the first shingle by 6 inches, and its top edge will align with the upper roof.
Continue cutting and fitting the remaining valley shingles, overlapping each shingle by 6 inches. Work your way down the valley from the top to the bottom.
Once all of the valley shingles are in place, nail them down with valley nails. Valley nails are longer than regular roofing nails, and they have a large head that helps to hold the shingles in place even in high winds.
Tips for Cutting and Fitting Valley Shingles
- Use a sharp knife to cut the shingles. A dull knife will tear the shingles and make them difficult to fit together.
- Measure the shingles carefully before cutting them. If the shingles are too short, they will not overlap properly.
- Overlap the shingles by at least 6 inches. This will help to prevent leaks.
- Use valley nails to secure the shingles. Valley nails are longer than regular roofing nails, and they have a large head that helps to hold the shingles in place.
- If you are working on a steep roof, use a safety harness. A safety harness will help to prevent you from falling if you slip.
- Use a high-quality roofing cement specifically designed for this purpose.
- Apply the cement in a smooth, even bead.
- Allow the cement to dry completely before walking on the roof.
- If you are working in a cold or wet climate, consider using a primer to improve the adhesion of the cement.
- Use a chalk line to mark the valley and ensure that the shingles are installed straight.
- Don’t nail the shingles too tightly. Over-nailing can cause the shingles to crack.
- Inspect the valley regularly and make repairs as needed.
Installing the Valley Shingles
1. Determine the Valley Length
Measure the length of the valley from the ridge to the eaves. Add 6 inches to this measurement to allow for overhang at both ends.
2. Cut the Valley Shingles
Cut 24-inch-wide valley shingles from 36-inch-wide rolls. Use a utility knife or scissors. Cut one valley shingle for every 12 inches of valley length.
3. Position the Valley Shingles
Start at the lower end of the valley. Position the first valley shingle so that it extends 3 inches over the eaves and 3 inches up the side of the roof. Secure the shingle with roofing nails.
4. Overlap the Valley Shingles
Overlap each subsequent valley shingle by 6 inches. Drive roofing nails through the center of the overlap.
5. Trim the Valley Shingles
Once you reach the upper end of the valley, trim the excess valley shingle so that it extends 3 inches over the ridge.
6. Seal the Valley Joints
Apply a bead of roofing cement along the inside edges of the valley shingles. Press the edges together to seal the joints.
Additional Tips for Sealing Valley Joints
Sealing the Valley Flashing
1. Clean the Valley
Before you begin, clean any dirt or debris from the valley with a brush or leaf blower. This will help the sealant to adhere properly.
2. Apply Primer to the Valley Flashing
Apply a primer to the valley flashing to help the sealant adhere. Allow the primer to dry completely before proceeding.
3. Apply a Bead of Sealant to the Valley Flashing
Using a caulk gun, apply a generous bead of roofing sealant to the valley flashing. The sealant should be applied in a continuous line along the entire length of the flashing.
4. Smooth the Sealant
Use a putty knife or your finger to smooth the sealant and remove any air bubbles. The sealant should be applied in a smooth, even layer.
5. Allow the Sealant to Dry
Allow the sealant to dry completely before shingling the valley. The drying time will vary depending on the type of sealant you are using.
6. Install the Starter Shingles
Once the sealant is dry, install the starter shingles in the valley. Starter shingles are designed to provide a base for the rest of the shingles and help to keep water from leaking into the valley.
7. Shingle the Valley
Begin shingling the valley by overlapping the starter shingles with the first course of standard shingles. Continue shingling the valley, alternating the direction of the shingles in each course. Overlap the shingles by at least 6 inches and make sure to seal the joints between the shingles with roofing cement.
| Tips for Shingling the Valley |
|---|
Installing the Ridge Cap
Once the underlayment and shingles are installed, it’s time to install the ridge cap. The ridge cap is the final piece that goes on the roof, and it protects the shingles from the elements. Ridge caps can be made of a variety of materials, including asphalt, metal, and concrete.
1. Measure and Cut the Ridge Cap
Measure the length of the ridge, and cut the ridge cap to size. The ridge cap should be long enough to cover the entire ridge, plus a few inches of overlap at each end.
2. Apply Roofing Cement
Apply a generous bead of roofing cement to the underside of the ridge cap. This will help to seal the ridge cap to the shingles and prevent leaks.
3. Set the Ridge Cap
Set the ridge cap in place on the roof. Starting at one end, align the ridge cap with the edge of the shingles. Press down on the ridge cap to seal it to the cement.
4. Secure the Ridge Cap
Secure the ridge cap with nails or screws. Drive the nails or screws through the ridge cap and into the shingles. Space the nails or screws about 6 inches apart.
5. Overlap the Ridge Caps
If you’re installing multiple lengths of ridge cap, overlap them by about 6 inches. Apply roofing cement to the overlap, and press the ridge caps together.
6. Seal the Edges
Apply a bead of roofing cement to the edges of the ridge cap. This will help to seal the edges and prevent leaks.
7. Clean Up
Once the ridge cap is installed, clean up any excess roofing cement. You can do this with a putty knife or a damp rag.
8. Inspection
Once the ridge cap is installed, inspect it carefully for any damage. Look for cracked or broken shingles, and make sure that the ridge cap is properly sealed. If you find any damage, repair it immediately.
| Tool | Description |
|---|---|
| Measuring tape | For measuring the length of the ridge |
| Tin snips | For cutting the ridge cap |
| Roofing cement | For sealing the ridge cap to the shingles |
| Caulk gun | For applying the roofing cement |
| Hammer or nail gun | For securing the ridge cap |
Finishing Touches
Determining the Length of the Shingles
For 3-tab shingles, you’ll need to cut them in half, while architectural shingles can be used whole. Measure the width of the valley and divide by two to find the length you need for half-shingles.
Cutting Shingles to Length
Use a utility knife or a sharp scissors to make clean, straight cuts. Start by holding the shingle securely and aligning the cutting tool with the desired length. Apply firm pressure and cut through the shingle in one smooth motion.
Installing Valley Shingles
Position the first valley shingle on the underlayment, aligning the edge with the chalk line. Nail it in place with six to eight nails, driving them in at a slight angle about 1 inch from the edge of the shingle.
Overlap the Valley Shingles
Continue installing valley shingles, overlapping the previous shingle by 6 inches. Repeat this process until the entire valley is covered.
Capping the Valley with a Step Flashing
To prevent water from entering the valley from the side, install a step flashing. Measure the width of the valley and cut the flashing to size. Bend the edges of the flashing up 2 inches on both sides and nail it in place along the top edge.
Nailing the Step Flashing
Secure the step flashing with six to eight nails per side, driving them in at an angle. Be sure to overlap the nails from the valley shingles to avoid any leaks.
Installing the Step Flashing on the Roof
Slide the step flashing under the shingles on the roof and nail it in place using 1-inch roofing nails. Repeat this process for all the remaining steps.
Applying Sealant
For added protection against water infiltration, apply a bead of sealant along the edges of the valley shingles and the step flashing.
Cleaning Up
Once the valley is complete, clean up any debris and inspect your work for any gaps or leaks. Make sure the nails are driven in securely and the sealant is applied evenly.
Shingling a Valley
Materials You’ll Need
– Shingles
– Roofing nails
– Roofing cement
– Valley flashing
– Utility knife
– Hammer or nail gun
Steps
1. Install the valley flashing.
2. Start shingling at the bottom of the valley.
3. Overlap each shingle by about 6 inches.
4. Nail each shingle in place with two nails.
5. Continue shingling up the valley until you reach the top.
6. Trim any excess shingles at the top of the valley.
7. Apply roofing cement to the exposed edges of the valley flashing.
8. Install the cap shingles over the valley flashing.
9. Overlap the cap shingles by about 6 inches.
10. Nail each cap shingle in place with two nails.
Tips for a Professional-Looking Result
– Use a chalk line to mark the center of the valley before you start shingling.
– Make sure that each shingle is overlapped by the previous shingle by at least 6 inches.
– Nail each shingle in place with two nails, one at the top and one at the bottom.
– Use roofing cement to seal the exposed edges of the valley flashing.
– Install the cap shingles over the valley flashing and overlap them by at least 6 inches.
– Nail each cap shingle in place with two nails, one at the top and one at the bottom.
– Use a utility knife to trim any excess shingles at the top of the valley.
– If you are installing shingles in a cold climate, use a rubber mallet to nail the shingles in place. This will help to prevent the shingles from cracking.
– If you are installing shingles in a hot climate, use a roofing sealant to help the shingles adhere to the roof.
Best Way to Shingle a Valley
The best way to shingle a valley is to use a method called “open valley.” This method involves creating a gap between the shingles on opposite sides of the valley, which allows water to drain more easily and prevents ice dams from forming.
To shingle a valley using the open valley method, follow these steps:
1. Start by installing a layer of underlayment in the valley. This will help to protect the roof from water damage.
2. Install a starter strip of shingles along the bottom edge of the valley. This will provide a base for the rest of the shingles.
3. Install the first course of shingles on one side of the valley, starting at the bottom and working your way up. Leave a 1-inch gap between the shingles and the edge of the valley.
4. Install the first course of shingles on the other side of the valley, starting at the bottom and working your way up. Leave a 1-inch gap between the shingles and the edge of the valley.
5. Continue installing courses of shingles on both sides of the valley, overlapping the shingles by 6 inches. Be sure to maintain the 1-inch gap between the shingles and the edge of the valley.
6. Once you reach the top of the valley, install a cap shingle. This will cover the gap between the two sides of the valley and help to prevent water damage.
If you are not comfortable installing shingles yourself, it is best to hire a professional roofer to do the job.
People Also Ask About Best Way to Shingle a Valley
What is the difference between open valley and closed valley shingling?
Open valley shingling is a method of installing shingles in a valley that leaves a gap between the shingles on opposite sides of the valley. This gap allows water to drain more easily and prevents ice dams from forming. Closed valley shingling is a method of installing shingles in a valley that does not leave a gap between the shingles. This method is less effective at preventing water damage, but it is easier to install.
What is the best type of underlayment to use in a valley?
The best type of underlayment to use in a valley is a self-adhesive membrane. This type of underlayment is easy to install and provides excellent protection against water damage.
How often should I inspect my valley?
You should inspect your valley at least once a year for any signs of damage. Look for missing or damaged shingles, gaps in the underlayment, and any other signs of wear and tear. If you find any damage, it is important to repair it as soon as possible to prevent further damage to your roof.
