Every DIYer knows the importance of having the right tools and materials for a job. If you’re trying to install an exterior door, you’ll need to know how to miter an outdoor strike. A mitered strike is a great way to ensure that your door fits snugly and securely against the frame.
Locate the jamb of the door’s frame. Hold the outside strike loosely against the jamb. The strike plate should be perpendicular to the jamb and the lip should be extended beyond the door casing around the jamb. Mark an outline of the strike plate on the jamb.
Next, remove the strike plate and then grab your miter saw, a common tool in many home workshops. The miter saw is used to cut angles into materials, such as wood or metal. Adjust the saw to a 45-degree angle. Measure and mark the length of the strike plate on the material you’re using. Place the material against the fence of the saw, aligning the mark with the saw blade. Slowly lower the saw blade onto the material and cut along the marked line. Repeat this process to cut another piece of material to the same length. Finally, attach the two pieces together with wood glue and clamps. Once the glue is dry, the strike plate can be installed on the door jamb.
Tools and Materials for Mitering
Mitering is a woodworking technique that involves cutting an angle into the ends of two pieces of wood so that they can be joined together at a 90-degree angle. This technique is often used in the construction of door and window frames, as well as in the assembly of picture frames and other decorative items.
Mitering requires a number of specialized tools and materials, including:
-
Miter Saw: A miter saw is a type of power saw that is specifically designed for cutting miters. It has a blade that can be tilted to a variety of angles, allowing you to make precise cuts in both directions. You can get manual or electric miter saws.
- Manual miter saw: You will need to exert more force and this type of saw is best used for light-duty projects or occasional use.
- Power miter saw: This is the most popular type of miter saw and is ideal for both home and professional use. It is more powerful than a manual miter saw, and it can make precise cuts in a variety of materials.
- Miter Box: A miter box is a guide that helps you to cut accurate miters. It has a series of slots that are cut at specific angles, allowing you to position the wood at the correct angle for cutting.
- Clamps: Clamps are used to hold the wood in place while you are cutting it. This helps to ensure that the cut is accurate and that the pieces of wood are joined together securely.
- Measuring Tape: A measuring tape is used to measure the length of the wood and to mark the location of the cuts.
- Pencil: A pencil is used to mark the location of the cuts on the wood.
Measuring and Marking the Joints
Step 1: Establish the Plate Center
Locate the center of the strike plate by measuring from the top and bottom edges and marking the middle point (A). Repeat this process from the left and right edges to find the other center point (B). Draw a crosshair through these two points.
Step 2: Measure and Mark the Door Edge
Close the door and secure it in place. Measure the distance from the crosshair on the strike plate to the door edge along the latch side of the door (C). Transfer this measurement to the door edge and mark point D.
Step 3: Mark the Miters
With a sharp pencil or marking knife, score a line perpendicular to the door edge at point D. This will be the center of the miter. Adjust a miter gauge on your table saw to 45 degrees and place it flush against the marked line. Mark the miter angles on either side of the center line, extending the lines beyond the door edge by about 1 inch.
Step 4: Template Guide
Alternatively, you can use a miter template to simplify the marking process. Place the template over the strike plate’s crosshair and mark the miter angles on the door edge.
Table: Recommended Miter Gauges
| Gauge | Accuracy | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Incra Miter 1000 | +/- 0.001″ | $250+ |
| JessEm Mast-R-Fence II | +/- 0.002″ | $150+ |
| Kreg Accu-Cut | +/- 0.005″ | $50+ |
Cutting the Miter Joints
Mitering the door strike involves creating angled cuts on the door jamb and strike plate to allow them to fit together seamlessly. This ensures a secure and aesthetically pleasing installation.
Measuring and Marking the Miter Joints
1. Measure the thickness of the door jamb and strike plate.
2. Mark a line on the jamb and strike plate at 45 degrees, starting from the edge where they will overlap.
3. Use a protractor or miter saw guide to ensure accuracy.
Setting the Miter Saw
1. Adjust the miter saw to a 45-degree angle.
2. Set the depth of cut to match the thickness of the door jamb and strike plate.
3. Secure the material to the saw table using clamps.
Cutting the Miter Joints
1. Slowly lower the saw blade onto the marked line on the door jamb.
2. Hold the jamb firmly in place and slowly guide it through the saw.
3. Repeat the process to cut a miter joint on the strike plate.
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | Lower blade onto marked line on door jamb. |
| 2 | Hold jamb firmly and guide through saw. |
| 3 | Repeat process for strike plate. |
Tips:
- Use a sharp saw blade for clean cuts.
- Clamp the material securely to prevent movement.
- Double-check the measurements and miter angles before cutting.
- Practice on scrap material to ensure proper technique.
- Remove the Lockset: Begin by removing the screws holding the lockset in place and carefully removing it from the door.
- Adjust the Latch Plate: Locate the latch plate on the lockset. Use a screwdriver to adjust the screws that hold it in place, either moving it up or down to align with the strike plate.
- Test the Latch: Hold the lockset against the door and test the latch. Ensure it engages smoothly into the strike plate and the door closes securely.
- Fine-Tune the Adjustment: If the latch is not engaging properly, make further adjustments to the latch plate until it aligns perfectly.
- Reinstall the Lockset: Once the latch is adjusted, carefully reinstall the lockset into the door and secure it with the screws.
- Final Test: Test the door to make sure the latch engages smoothly and the door latches securely.
- Mark the location of the strike: Hold the strike plate against the door frame and mark the outline of the strike box with a pencil.
- Cut the strike box: Use a chisel and hammer to carefully cut out the strike box, ensuring that the edges are straight and clean.
- Miter the strike plate: Place the strike plate on a miter saw and adjust the saw to a 45-degree angle. Cut the strike plate diagonally, ensuring that the cut is clean and precise.
- Test fit the strike plate: Insert the strike plate into the strike box and check the fit. The plate should fit flush against the door frame, with no gaps or overlaps.
- Secure the strike plate: Drive screws through the holes in the strike plate to secure it to the door frame. Countersink the screws slightly to ensure that they are flush with the surface.
- Use a sharp chisel and hammer for clean cuts.
- Double-check your measurements before cutting the strike plate.
- Test fit the strike plate several times to ensure a proper fit.
- Countersink the screws to prevent them from catching on the door.
Assembling the Strike
Before you can install the strike, you need to assemble it. The strike typically comes in two pieces: the strike plate and the strike box. The strike plate is the part that mounts to the door jamb, and the strike box is the part that the latch engages with when the door is closed. To assemble the strike, simply insert the strike box into the strike plate and secure it with the included screws.
Once the strike is assembled, you need to determine where it will be mounted on the door jamb. The ideal location for the strike is directly across from the latch on the door. To find the correct location, close the door and mark the spot on the door jamb where the latch hits. This is where you will mount the strike.
To mount the strike, simply hold it in place and mark the location of the screw holes. Then, drill pilot holes for the screws and secure the strike to the door jamb. Be sure to tighten the screws securely, but do not overtighten them.
Once the strike is mounted, you can test it to make sure it is working properly. Close the door and check to make sure that the latch engages with the strike box. If the latch does not engage properly, you may need to adjust the strike. To adjust the strike, simply loosen the screws and move the strike slightly until the latch engages properly. Then, tighten the screws securely.
Gluing and Clamping the Joints
Once the miters are cut, it’s time to glue and clamp them together. This process is crucial for ensuring a strong and durable joint.
Materials
| Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Wood glue | Adheres the mitered pieces together |
| Clamps | Applies pressure to hold the pieces in place |
| Damp cloth | Wipe away excess glue |
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Apply Wood Glue
Apply a thin, even layer of wood glue to both mitered surfaces. Avoid using too much glue, as this can weaken the joint.
2. Clamp the Pieces Together
Align the mitered pieces and clamp them tightly together. Use multiple clamps if necessary to ensure a secure hold.
3. Wipe Away Excess Glue
Use a damp cloth to wipe away any excess glue that squeezes out. This will prevent the glue from hardening on the surface and creating an unsightly mess.
4. Allow the Glue to Dry
Allow the glue to dry completely before removing the clamps. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended drying time.
5. Reinforce the Joint (Optional)
For added strength, consider reinforcing the mitered joint with a couple of brad nails or screws. Drill small pilot holes before inserting the fasteners to avoid splitting the wood.
Reinforcing the Miter Joints
Once the miter joints are cut, they need to be reinforced to ensure a strong and durable connection. There are several methods for reinforcing miter joints, including:
1. Glue
Wood glue is a common method for reinforcing miter joints. Apply a thin layer of glue to the edges of the joints and clamp them together. Allow the glue to dry completely before removing the clamps.
2. Nails
Nails can also be used to reinforce miter joints. Drive nails through the edges of the joints, taking care not to split the wood. Countersink the nails slightly below the surface of the wood.
3. Screws
Screws provide a stronger reinforcement than nails. Drive screws through the edges of the joints, using countersunk screws to hide the screw heads.
4. Biscuits
Biscuits are small, oval-shaped pieces of wood that are inserted into slots cut into the edges of the joints. The biscuits swell when they are moistened with glue, creating a strong bond between the joints.
5. Dowels
Dowels are cylindrical pieces of wood that are inserted into holes drilled into the edges of the joints. The dowels are glued in place, creating a strong and durable connection.
6. Joint Reinforcers
Joint reinforcers are metal plates that are attached to the inside of the miter joints. The reinforcers provide additional strength and support to the joints. They come in various sizes and shapes to accommodate different types of joints. Here is a comparison table of different joint reinforcers:
| Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Angle Reinforcer | A metal plate that is bent at a 90-degree angle and attached to the inside corner of the joint. |
| Butt Reinforcer | A metal plate that is attached to the ends of the joint, covering the butt joint. |
| T-Reinforcer | A metal plate that is shaped like a T and is attached to the center of the joint. |
Finishing the Mitered Strike
7. Outline the strike
Once the strike is cut, it’s time to outline it. This involves using a sharp knife to score around the edges of the strike, about 1/8″ from the edge. This will help to define the edges of the strike and make it easier to install.
To outline the strike, hold the knife perpendicular to the surface of the strike and score around the edges, keeping the knife blade at a consistent depth. Be careful not to cut all the way through the strike.
Once the strike is outlined, you can use a chisel to remove the waste material. To do this, place the chisel on the waste material and tap it with a hammer until the waste material is removed.
Here’s a table summarizing the steps for outlining a strike:
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | Hold the knife perpendicular to the surface of the strike. |
| 2 | Score around the edges of the strike, about 1/8″ from the edge. |
| 3 | Be careful not to cut all the way through the strike. |
| 4 | Use a chisel to remove the waste material. |
Installing the Mitered Strike
Now that the strike is mitered, it’s time to install it. Here’s how:
1. Insert the Strike into the Jamb: Slide the strike into the mortise in the jamb. Make sure it’s aligned properly and flush with the edge of the door frame.
2. Mark the Strike Screw Locations: Hold the strike in place and mark the screw holes using a pencil or awl.
3. Drill Pilot Holes: Drill small pilot holes at the marked screw locations. This will prevent the wood from splitting when you drive the screws in.
4. Secure the Strike: Insert the screws into the pilot holes and tighten them securely using a screwdriver. Make sure the strike is held firmly in place.
5. Test the Strike: Close the door and try the lock. The latch should engage smoothly with the strike and the door should latch securely.
6. Adjust the Strike if Necessary: If the door doesn’t latch properly, you may need to adjust the strike position slightly. Loosen the screws, move the strike as needed, and tighten the screws again.
7. Reinstall the Strike Plate: Once the strike is properly installed, reattach the strike plate to the door jamb using the provided screws.
8. Lubricate the Strike: Apply a small amount of lubricant to the moving parts of the strike. This will help keep it functioning smoothly and prevent wear and tear.
Lubricant Options:
| Type | Application |
|---|---|
| Graphite | Dry lubricant, good for high-temperature applications |
| Teflon | Non-stick lubricant, resistant to dirt and corrosion |
| Lithium Grease | Thick lubricant, good for heavy-duty applications |
Adjusting the Door Lock
Once the strike plate is correctly positioned, you need to adjust the door lock to engage properly with it. This involves adjusting the latch and strike plate until they align and the door latches securely.
9. Adjusting the Latch
To adjust the latch, follow these detailed steps:
| Adjustment | Direction |
|---|---|
| Latch too high | Move latch plate down |
| Latch too low | Move latch plate up |
| Latch too far in | Move latch plate out |
| Latch too far out | Move latch plate in |
Cutting the Miter
Adjust the miter saw to a 45-degree angle. Clamp the door stop to the saw table and position it so that the saw blade will cut through the center of the stop. Make sure the stop is flush with the edge of the saw table.
Attaching the Strike Plate
Position the strike plate over the hole in the door jamb and secure it with screws.
Troubleshooting Common Mitering Issues
1. The miter is not tight.
The most common reason for a loose miter is that the saw blade is not cutting straight. Make sure the saw blade is sharp and free of any debris. You may also need to adjust the saw blade angle to a more precise 45-degree angle.
2. The miter is too tight.
If the miter is too tight, it may be difficult to install the door stop. To fix this, you can slightly widen the miter by sanding the edges of the door stop.
3. The miter is not square.
If the miter is not square, it will cause the door stop to sit crooked. To fix this, you can use a miter gauge to ensure that the saw blade is cutting at a perfect 90-degree angle.
4. The miter is too long.
If the miter is too long, it will extend beyond the edge of the door jamb. To fix this, you can shorten the miter by cutting a small amount off the end of the door stop.
5. The miter is too short.
If the miter is too short, it will not reach the edge of the door jamb. To fix this, you can extend the miter by adding a small piece of wood to the end of the door stop.
6. The miter is not level.
If the miter is not level, it will cause the door stop to sit unevenly. To fix this, you can use a level to ensure that the door stop is installed perfectly level.
7. The miter is not flush.
If the miter is not flush, it will cause the door stop to protrude from the door jamb. To fix this, you can use a sander to smooth down the edges of the door stop until it is flush with the door jamb.
8. The miter is not centered.
If the miter is not centered, it will cause the door stop to be offset from the center of the door jamb. To fix this, you can adjust the position of the door stop until it is centered.
9. The miter is not secure.
If the miter is not secure, it may come loose over time. To fix this, you can use additional screws or nails to secure the door stop to the door jamb.
10. The miter is damaged.
If the miter is damaged, it may need to be replaced. To replace a damaged miter, you can cut a new miter to the same size and shape as the original miter. You can then attach the new miter to the door stop using screws or nails.
How to Miter Outdoor Strike
Mitering an outdoor strike is a necessary step when installing a door. It ensures that the strike plate is flush with the door frame, creating a secure and weather-resistant seal. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to miter an outdoor strike:
Tips:
People Also Ask about How to Miter Outdoor Strike
What is a mitered strike?
A mitered strike is a strike plate that has been cut at a 45-degree angle, allowing it to fit flush against a beveled door frame.
Why is it important to miter outdoor strikes?
Mitering outdoor strikes is important because it creates a secure and weather-resistant seal between the door and the frame. It prevents gaps or overlaps that could allow water or air to penetrate.
What tools do I need to miter an outdoor strike?
You will need a chisel, hammer, miter saw, and screws to miter an outdoor strike.
How do I know if the strike plate is installed correctly?
The strike plate is installed correctly if it fits flush against the door frame, with no gaps or overlaps. The door should latch securely into the strike plate when closed.
